Lee Laird

Lee Laird has enjoyed woodworking for over30 years. He is retired from the U.S.P.S. and works for Lie-Nielsen Toolworks as a show staff member, demonstrating tools and training customers. You can email him at lee@lie-nielsen.com or follow him on Twitter at twitter.com/is9582

Re-assessing a 25-year old chisel

Oct 102012
 

When you purchase a chisel, depending on whether it is new or used, the bevel angle could either be what the maker decided was optimal for its intended usage, or a middle-of-the-road balance. Now if it is a used chisel, the angle could be just about anything, depending on the previous owner’s choices. Ultimately, once you own the chisel, you can decide to either leave the bevel angle alone, or fine-tune it to your needs.

I have a few Hirsch brand chisels (high carbon steel) I purchased about 25 years ago. These were my first attempt at “moving up” to better chisels. Compared to A2 steel or Japanese White & Blue steels available currently, this might make some chuckle, but these were quite a jump from my four-piece clear yellow handle Stanley chisel set. The Stanley chisels wouldn’t hold an edge long enough to make it to the wood (or at least that is what it usually seemed like). When I bought the Hirsch chisels, I wasn’t sure what sizes I’d want (or need), as I was still trying to figure all of that out. So, I bought a range of sizes, and one of those chisels was a huge 50mm chisel. When I started to get better at my woodworking, I started making very small boxes and such, so that chisel just sat around. I ran across that chisel recently and noticed how I’d only ever honed it once, and the bevel angle was between 30 – 35 degrees.

Chisel Side View - Original Bevel

This is a decent angle, if you are intending to drive it with a mallet, but I wanted to adjust it to a lower angle so it would be better suited for paring. I ended up choosing an angle between 20 – 25 degrees.

Adjusting the bevel angle on a chisel or a plane iron can be very quick, or very time consuming, depending on whether you want a higher or lower angle than what you’ve already got. If the tool has too low of an angle, it is simple and quick to raise the tool, in relationship to the sharpening media, and take a few strokes. This is very much like the sharpening/honing process I have written about regularly, when starting with a fresh plane iron with a 25-degree bevel, and then honing a few strokes with it raised up to 30 degrees. This is a very simple process and extremely quick. Now, if the tool has a bevel angle that is higher than you want, you must remove the excess material on the bevel (which can be dramatic, depending on the angle change), in order to implement the lower angle. You can remove the excess material by hand, using diamond stones, sand paper, water or oil stone…which can be a great workout for strengthening your hands, forearms and even shoulders. Or, you can use a multitude of choices that are powered, like a high-speed/low-speed grinder, a belt sander, or one of the super-slow speed grinders where the wheel rotates through a water bath. I have used each of these mentioned methods over the years, and all are functional, but some require a lighter touch to make sure you don’t cause problems for your tools. One of the main problems to be concerned with is drawing out the temper of the steel. The steel in your tools are hardened through a process of heat treating, and if you accidentally (or intentionally) raise the steel’s temperature beyond a specific point, and don’t have the ability to repeat the remaining process, you’ll end up with steel that is either softer and won’t hold a good cutting edge, or harder and more brittle. This is not an issue when using the water bath super slow grinders, but the other powered choices can generate heat quite quickly, IF you use a heavy hand.

Since I had quite a bit of material to remove from the bevel of my chisel, I opted to use my combo high/low speed grinder. I have a Oneway Wolverine platform rest, which I find easy to adjust and the mass of the platform does a good job as a heat sink. For those who are not familiar, a heat sink in this context is a large and thick enough piece of metal that can draw/absorb away the excess heat generated into a tool, in this instance from the grinding process. This is useful, but still does not negate the need for a light touch. For this grinding process, I was using a 60-grit wheel that was freshly dressed. This grit wheel removes material fairly quickly, and imparts less heat into the tool than a higher grit wheel. As the wheel starts to clog from the removed metal, it becomes less aggressive, and can again cause overheating. Just pay attention to how the wheel behaves, and dress it with a diamond wheel dresser when the wheel’s cutting action slows.

Before starting, make sure you are wearing a safety face shield AND safety glasses, which provide an extra level of protection for those non-replaceable eyes we use every day. You really don’t want to get metal shavings into an eye! You also want to make sure you don’t have on any loose fitting clothing that can find its way into the moving grinding wheels.

Ok, with the platform set as close to the wheel as I can get it, without it making contact with the wheel(s) (I rotate the wheels by hand to check before turning the grinder on), and the platform set at the desired angle, we can get started. I cover the tip of the bevel with a black Sharpie marking pen, so I can tell how close I’m getting to the cutting edge, since I choose not to grind to the edge of the tool I’m working. Since the cutting edge of the chisel is thin, it can heat extremely quickly when it is engaged with the grinder. The edge of the chisel can easily exceed the “critical” temperature, losing the temper at the cutting edge. Staying just slightly away from the cutting edge makes it a little easier to control this issue, but a very light touch is best when getting close to the edge. After the grinder is on and up to speed, I put the chisel onto the platform and gently move it forward until I just touch the wheel. From this position, using a light touch, I move the chisel from side to side, checking my progress often.

Chisel - Starting Grinding Point

Chisel - Further Grinding

I keep one of my hands up close to the end of the chisel (without being close enough to the wheel to get hurt), so I can feel if the chisel is becoming too hot. I remove the chisel after every couple of passes, and feel up closer to the cutting edge. If it is too hot to be comfortable to my fingers, I place the back of the chisel onto the metal platform, and hold it there until cooled. The heat sink aspect of the platform is very useful. I’ll usually remind myself to reduce the pressure I’m using on the grinding wheel, after I notice the chisel is too hot, since this is a good sign of impatience. Just slow down and take your time. You’ll end up doing a better job and there is much less chance of damaging your tool.

I stopped the grinding when I saw I had just under a 1/16” of the Sharpie left at the end of the chisel. In the picture below, I removed the sharpie from the original cutting edge, so the polished edge might better show this point.

Grinding Finished - Polished Edge

At this point, I go to my honing stones. As per usual, for me, I start with my 1000-grit water stone, and work on it until I can feel a consistent burr all the way across the back of the chisel’s cutting edge. I then move to my 8000-grit water stone and with the freshly ground chisel, will take between 5 – 10 strokes. The 8000-grit stone polishes the metal to a mirror-like finish. With this, I can check to make sure I have a consistent honing across the tip of the bevel. As long as this is true, I’m ready to move to the back of the chisel, so I can remove the burr. Remember to keep the chisel flat on its back for this process. When the burr is gone, and you’ve honed the back to 8000-grit, you are finished.

(*Not all tools receive the same attention at the factory. Specifically, the back of this 50mm chisel was not even close to flat from their factory. Luckily, there was a slight hollow in the back, which makes it look somewhat like a Japanese chisel or plane iron. I say luckily, since I was able to remove a small amount of metal to get the cutting edge in plane with the strips of metal along the sides. If the back had a bulge in the center instead, I would have had to remove a lot of metal to obtain the same flat reference.)

Back Hollow - From Factory

My newly adjusted 50mm chisel feels like a new addition to the family. With its size and heft, it behaves somewhat like a Slick. I’m really glad I decided to modify the bevel angle, as I’ll be much more likely to utilize the chisel in this configuration.

I’d like to include one caveat, specifically about A2 tool steel, that you should consider before deciding to adjust a tool to a low bevel angle. Remember that A2 tool steel needs to have a bevel angle no lower than 30 degrees, due to the size of the carbides. If you have an A2 chisel/iron with a bevel angle below 30 degrees, there is a great likelihood you will experience chipping at the cutting edge. A2 is a great tool steel, and retains an edge for a long time, but just keep the bevel angle at 30 degrees or above.

I hope this article helps you to reintegrate a stagnant tool, or even open up the opportunity that might exist in a used tool. Please feel free to let me know if you have any questions.

Lee Laird has enjoyed woodworking for over 20 years. He is retired from the U.S.P.S. and works for Lie-Nielsen Toolworks as a show staff member, demonstrating tools and training customers. You can email him at lee@lie-nielsen.com or follow him on Twitter at twitter.com/is9582

The Plane Facts: The Lie-Nielsen #103 Block Plane

Oct 012012
 

The Lie-Nielsen #103 Standard-Angle Block Plane is the brother to the #102 Low-Angle Block Plane. The #103 plane has the iron bedded at 20 degrees, which along with the 25-degree bevel that comes on the iron, presents a 45-degree cutting angle to the wood (being a bevel-up plane). For those who aren’t hand-tool aficionados, this is the same cutting angle as standard bench planes. This angle is good for all-around work and even somewhat thicker shavings, compared to the Low-Angled planes, which excel at end grain and super fine cuts. The size of this block plane (5 1/4” long) fits so nicely in the hand, and is small enough to drop into a shop apron’s pocket, making it so easy to have within quick reach at all times. I love to use my small block plane in a number of ways, including edges of boards as well as smaller focused areas on the face of a board. The small block planes are easily a favorite of mine.

The body of the #103 is made from bronze, which has some distinct advantages. One of the advantages is how the extra mass of the bronze version is heavier than a like sized plane made from ductile cast iron. This extra mass makes it easier to keep the plane moving through the cut. Another important advantage, especially for those who live close to a body of water, is that bronze doesn’t rust. However, be sure to recognize that the A-2 cutting iron is still susceptible to rust, so make sure to apply a thin layer of Jojoba oil or Camellia oil to slow down the rust monster on your iron. Even though the bronze bodies will not rust, they can oxidize, which makes them less bright and shiny. Some people prefer the natural patina the bronze gains, as it ages, but for those who would rather retain the “bling” of the polished bronze, it just takes a little effort. A product called the Sunshine Polishing Cloth is available, and is regularly used by the Lie-Nielsen crew, on all of their bronze products. This cloth does a remarkable job of removing any oxidation, and restoring the original luster.

The #103 has an iron made of A-2 tool steel, hardened to Rockwell 60-62. This iron holds an edge for a very long time, but with A-2 , it is best not to hone the bevel at less than 30 degrees. The carbides in A-2 tool steel are fairly large, and when the angle is less than 30 degrees, the carbides at the edge of the iron don’t have enough support. I keep my honing on A-2 tool steel at 30 degrees or higher, and I’ve personally experienced great results.

As with most planes, I start honing the iron on a 1000-grit stone and finish with an 8000-grit. This will provide a shaving-sharp cutting edge. To accelerate the process, I usually hone at 5 degrees higher than the original bevel angle. (e.g. if the iron came with a 25 degree bevel, I hone at 30 degrees). This saves a great deal of time, as I’m only working a very thin sliver of metal at the cutting edge of the iron. When working the bevel of an iron direct from the factory, I can expect to take 5 strokes or less on the 1000-grit water stone. I feel the back of the iron to see if a burr is formed all the way across the cutting edge to determine if more attention is required. After I have a burr tip-to-tip, I move to the 8000-grit water stone. I usually take the same number of strokes on this stone as I did on the 1000-grit stone. To hone the back of the iron, I remove it from the honing guide, and using David Charlesworth’s ruler trick, place a thin 6” ruler on the surface of the 8000-grit water stone. The ruler should be at the edge opposite from where the cutting edge of the iron will be. Start with the cutting edge of the iron just slightly overhanging the edge of the water stone. With the iron riding on the ruler, pull the iron back until the cutting edge is about a 1/2” or so onto the stone, then push it forward so its just off the edge of the stone. This movement can be compared to a piston, pushing the iron forward so the cutting edge is just off of the stone, then pulling it back so it’s again about 1/2” on. Repeat this 8 to 10 times while moving slightly laterally with each stroke. Wipe the back of the iron off, with a towel or a paper towel, so you can check your progress. When you see a very narrow polished band, all the way across, at the cutting edge, you are finished. I can usually complete the total sharpening process in about 2 minutes, but just like anything else, speed and comfort with this process will come with practice. Check out a video of the sharpening process here. You can also find additional tips on sharpening, like what honing guides to use, adjustments for honing guides, how to make a jig to achieve consistent sharpening angles, and a whole lot more, on the Lie-Nielsen YouTube channel.

To set the iron for an even full-width shaving, back the spin wheel off until the iron is adjustable, but still keeping the iron under slight tension. Using the adjuster nut, wind the iron back into the body. I like to place a piece of white paper on my bench, so it’s easier to see the next step. While holding the plane over the paper, sight down the plane sole, so you can see when the iron starts to project. Turn the adjuster nut clockwise, and stop when you see a little black line showing through the mouth of the plane. This narrow black line is the front of the iron. Now that you see the iron, look to see if it is even across the plane. If not, light taps on the side of the iron, near the adjuster nut, will help even the iron in the mouth. Once you have the iron laterally positioned, again sight down the sole. Turn the adjuster nut counter-clockwise, while watching to see the black line disappear. Stop just after it leaves your sight. Now rotate the adjuster nut clockwise, just until you feel slight pressure, taking out any backlash. Depending on your eyesight, it’s possible you may have enough iron projecting to test your settings, without needing to advance the iron further. I know I’ve watched the iron as it “left my sight”, only to find I’d actually left it out by about .001”. To finalize and verify your setup, put a thin piece of wood in your vise on edge, and see how your plane behaves. Start by testing both the right and left sides of the iron, to see if the shavings are of equal thickness. If the iron doesn’t yet engage, turn the adjuster nut clockwise by a couple of minutes (thinking about the face of a clock) and test. Repeat this process until the iron is engaging the wood. This will prevent overshooting a fine shaving. The testing on both edges of the iron provides feedback relating to how even the iron is oriented in the mouth. If the shaving from each side isn’t equal, another light tap or two should resolve that issue. If both edges cut similarly, setting the overall thickness of the shaving is next, and ultimately a repeat of the above process of advancing incrementally. When you reach the thickness of shaving you want, re-apply the 1/4 turn of the spin wheel and see how the plane behaves. If the plane needs further adjustment, just follow the same procedures of releasing the spin wheel’s pressure on the iron, adjust, then re-apply the spin wheel. Once you get used to the process, it will feel like second nature.

I hope this helps answer any questions about this plane. Please let me know if you have any specific questions I may have missed.

Click to take a closer look at the Lie-Nielsen #103 Bronze Standard Angle Block Plane.

Click to see Highland Woodworking’s entire selection of Lie-Nielsen hand tools.

Lee Laird has enjoyed woodworking for over 20 years. He is retired from the U.S.P.S. and works for Lie-Nielsen Toolworks as a show staff member, demonstrating tools and training customers. You can email him at lee@lie-nielsen.com or follow him on Twitter at twitter.com/is9582

A Router Jig and A Little Extra Focus

Sep 122012
 

I’m working on a Les Paul style electric guitar build. Many guitars have tops that are somewhat flat, but in contrast, most Les Paul guitars have curves and angles that make them fairly sexy. One of these angles is on the front portion of the top, and I cut it with a router and special home-made jig. This approximately 5 degree angle works together with a neck angle to create a slight backward slope for the neck and strings.

To create this angle, I made a box out of plywood, to fit closely to the body of the guitar. All sides are the same height, and the tops of these sides are in the same plane. I attached the box to a plywood base, using two door hinges.


This allows me to change the angle of the box, relative to the guitar body. I also cut two wedges of wood, which can be slid under the two long sides of the box. This ultimately adjusts and retains the angle I set.


To determine the exact angle, I use a digital angle gauge. The body of the guitar is placed on the plywood base, inside the box frame, using some double-sided tape, so it doesn’t move around.

Next I cut a piece of MDF long enough to slide back and forth over the box, without slipping off, while also wide enough to house my router. I removed the plastic base from my router, and using it as a template, marked the MDF for the screw holes and the center collet opening. After measuring the screws that hold the original plate to the router, I marked the MDF as to how deep I needed to drill for the screw heads to be recessed below the surface, and still hold the new base firmly.


After making the necessary holes and counter sinks, I put the new base on my router, and tested to make sure the screws solidly engaged. I was shocked when the screws lined up, but wouldn’t grab enough thread to hold. Just before going back to the drill press, I took another look to make sure I wasn’t missing something. I have a Triton 2 1/4 HP router, and they have two silver spring-loaded bolt heads that are not flush with the metal base, even though they sit below the plastic base. I had initially missed these, since they are normally out of the way. These two bolt heads are used to connect the router to a separate fence system. Well, they were just high enough above the metal base, to prevent the small screws from working. After removing both bolts, the new MDF base sat flat, and the screws did their job. If I hadn’t noticed this router’s unique feature, I very likely would have removed more material at the drill press, and possibly weakened the MDF to the point of failure.

It’s always a good idea to take an extra moment to reassess before deciding to remove more material, as we all know it’s much harder to put it back on. I’m glad to share this almost mishap, so that hopefully everyone’s awareness is raised a couple of notches.

Stay safe, keep making shavings and let me know if you have any questions.

Lee Laird has enjoyed woodworking for over 20 years. He is retired from the U.S.P.S. and works for Lie-Nielsen Toolworks as a show staff member, demonstrating tools and training customers. You can email him at lee@lie-nielsen.com or follow him on Twitter at twitter.com/is9582

The Plane Facts: The Lie-Nielsen Convex Sole Block Plane

Aug 312012
 

This month I’m writing about one of Lie-Nielsen’s smallest planes, the Convex Sole Block Plane. Don’t discount the size though, as it can be as handy as any other plane in the lineup.

The Convex Sole Block Plane is similar to other planes, in that it has a ductile cast iron body, an A-2 steel iron and a bronze cap. The sole of the plane is 3 1/2” long, and the overall length, including the squirrel tail handle, is 5”. Not all block planes have squirrel tails, but since this plane is small, the tail really makes it much easier to hold comfortably. On most block planes, the sole is flat both side-to-side and front to back. Not on this plane. The sole on this plane is convex both side-to-side and front to back (This means if you set the plane down on one of it’s sides, the bottom bows out in width and length). This Plane is bedded at 20 degrees, with the iron bevel up. The sole radius is 3” side-to-side and 27” front to back, and the mouth has a radius of 15/16”. The radius of the cutting edge of the iron is 7/8”, which prevents the corners of the iron from engaging the wood, as long as the iron is set for a light to medium cut.

This shape of plane is very handy when working on any project that has a concave recess, like a seat for a chair, or even some of the shaping that goes into making the top for a Les Paul guitar (originated by Gibson Guitar Corp.), for instance. Some woodworkers will gravitate towards some type of gouge to work concave shapes, but there is something about the control this plane provides, and the surface it leaves, that makes this such a valuable piece for your tool kit. Even if I use a gouge for the bulk removal of a concave shape, I like to follow it up with this plane, which provides a finalized surface, and the results look and feel so much better than when I use sandpaper.

Sharpening this plane’s iron is a bit different from sharpening a typical flat-soled plane. You start by honing the back of the iron much the same way you would an iron from most other planes. Start with a 1000 grit water stone and then move up to 8000 grit. The main difference is, since the end of this iron is essentially a section of a circle, rather than straight across, you won’t use the Charlesworth ruler trick for this one. I work with the back of the iron flat on the stones, and it usually takes a little longer to fully hone the back the first time. Subsequent sharpening requires very little attention to the back, so the time spent on the first sharpening is a one-time thing. I also limit how much iron extends onto the stone, so it reaches no more than half way across, and depending on the stone size, I may not even reach the half way mark. There is no reason to work the complete back of the iron, as the only section that is cutting is the very edge. Just make sure enough iron is extended onto the stone so you can feel your reference. If you tried to hone something silly-small like a 1/16”, at the tip of the iron, it would be almost impossible to feel that the iron was actually flat on the stone.

Once you finish working the back, shift to the bevel side, for which the steps are also a bit different. To hone the plane iron’s bevel, start by creating a groove in some soft wood, and then set the plane to make a deeper cut than normal. Expect it to take multiple passes, and either focus on keeping the plane’s centerline aligned with your groove’s centerline, or tack a straight strip of wood onto the board to use as a fence. My preference is to make at least a couple of these “pattern” boards, if I plan to use multiple “grits” of honing compound. This way I can maintain each board for a specific grit, and just mark each one for the type of compound used. After creating the groove in the board, apply the compound to the groove. Now, with the iron out of the plane body, orient the iron so the bevel matches the curvature of the groove. Next, I like to mark the bevel of the iron with a black Sharpie marker. This provides feedback so I can immediately tell that I’m working the correct area of the iron. Work the bevel through the compounds, until the full bevel is polished, or at minimum, the leading edge is polished.

Once the iron is sharp, it’s time to re-assemble and put the tool to work. Once the iron is in the plane, lightly snug up the bronze cap, just so it is tight enough that the iron doesn’t move around. I like to set the plane on a flat piece of wood, so the mouth of the plane is the point where the body is resting. While holding the body, I put just a bit of pressure on the back of the iron, so the iron is making contact with the wood. Tighten the cap a bit more, and then see if the iron is engaging properly. If the iron needs further adjustment forward or laterally, make sure the cap isn’t too tight, then tap the blade lightly until the cut is to your liking. Make sure to tighten the cap once you’ve dialed in the cut.

Go give the Convex Sole Block Plane plane a try. I think you just might find it a missing piece from your kit.

I hope this helps answer any questions. Please let me know if you have any specific questions I may have missed.

Click to take a closer look at the Lie-Nielsen Convex Sole Block Plane.

Click to see Highland Woodworking’s entire selection of Lie-Nielsen hand tools.

Lee Laird has enjoyed woodworking for over 20 years. He is retired from the U.S.P.S. and works for Lie-Nielsen Toolworks as a show staff member, demonstrating tools and training customers. You can email him at lee@lie-nielsen.com.

The Plane Facts: #95 Bronze Edge Lie-Nielsen Planes

Jul 312012
 

This month I’m writing about some very unique looking planes that are extremely functional. These are the #95 Bronze Edge Planes. Lie-Nielsen makes these in both right and left hand versions, so you get optimum results no matter the grain direction of your work piece. The #95 has a sole and fence that are precision lapped so they are 90 degrees to one another. The iron is 1/8” thick to prevent chattering and is bedded at 12 degrees. The iron is A2 and comes with a 25 degree bevel straight across and is skewed 17 degrees in the plane body.

Right hand version of the #95

Since the iron’s bevel is ground straight across, like most bench and block planes, you can sharpen it using any side clamping or top clamping honing guide with good results. I treat the iron just like the majority of my other plane irons and hone a 5 degree micro bevel, raising the iron to 30 degrees. On the first honing, it only takes a couple of strokes on the 1000 grit stone to raise a burr on the back of the iron. Subsequent honing may require additional strokes on the stone to generate the burr. Raising a burr will always be the indicator that you’ve completed the work with this stone. Another couple of strokes, at the same angle, on the 8000 grit stone and the bevel side is complete. Now it’s just a matter of providing the same level of attention to the backside of the iron. As you may recall, I use David Charlesworth’s method to handle the back of the iron. Place a thin ruler on the 8000 grit stone, just far enough from the far edge that the iron’s cutting edge hangs slightly over the edge, while the non-cutting end rides on the ruler. Pull the iron’s cutting edge onto the stone, then push back off to the starting position. Repeat this a few times until the burr on the back of the iron is gone. You should see a very thin polished area, on the back of the iron, at the very cutting edge. That should get you a shaving sharp edge on your iron. With that said, be sure you handle the iron carefully. It only takes a moment of inattention to need a trip to the safety kit, or even a stitch or two. Don’t ask me how I know.

Place the iron back into position on the plane, and slip the cap over the iron. Lightly tension the cap, then while holding your thumb on the cap, move the lever under the iron to advance or retract it. Like with most planes, you sight along the sole and look for the thin black line that shows when the iron is above the sole. If the line only shows on one side, move the blade until it is consistent across the full width. I usually retract the iron to the point where I just lose sight of the black line, and then I tension the cap. This gets me very close on cutting depth and angle, and I take the plane to a test piece of wood to finalize the setting. If the resulting test is not exactly 90 degrees, you can adjust the iron to get it perfect. Moving the iron so there is more opening near the fence will lower the angle, while additional opening near the edge will increase the angle.

Notice the small lever behind the non-cutting end of the iron.

If I want to use the #95 to make the edge of a board square to the face, I start by first flattening a reference face. Once complete, I make a mark so I know my reference face, as I always want the fence on my #95 to be up against that side. This will provide my best results, and is why Lie-Nielsen makes both right and left hand versions of the #95. If you always put the fence against your reference side, you’ve got a 50/50 chance that the grain will be your friend. With both versions of the #95, it’s just a matter of choosing the plane that takes advantage of the grain on any given board.

While the primary use is for squaring the edges of stock, you can easily add wooden shoes to the fence, to establish for instance, a specific angled bevel that might be outside the range of adjustment of the iron alone. These planes can also function to widen dados and adjust the depth on rabbets. If the bronze is leaving a mark on light colored wood, you can add a thin strip of wood or tape to the sole/fence to prevent contact, or polish the same contact areas on the plane.

Now go make some shavings! Let me know if you have any questions or suggestions for future articles.

Click to take a closer look at the Lie-Nielsen left hand and right hand edge planes.

Click to see Highland Woodworking’s entire selection of Lie-Nielsen hand tools.

Lee Laird has enjoyed woodworking for over 20 years. He is retired from the U.S.P.S. and works for Lie-Nielsen Toolworks as a show staff member, demonstrating tools and training customers. You can email him at lee@lie-nielsen.com.


Tool Review: The Lie-Nielsen Progressive Pitch Dovetail Saw

Jul 062012
 

The Progressive Pitch version of Lie-Nielsen’s dovetail saw has some features that make it unique and also a fan favorite. Most production made handsaws have saw teeth that are the same pitch all across the saw plate. For example, if a saw has a pitch of 15ppi, then each inch will have 15 points. In this Progressive Pitch dovetail saw, the pitch gradually changes from the toe to the heel of the plate. At the toe, the pitch starts at 16ppi and progressively decreases to 9ppi at the heel. The picture below displays the range of teeth sizes used on this saw.

With handsaws, most woodworkers will find that a smaller pitch makes it easier to start a cut, while a larger pitch cuts more quickly once you get started. That’s the concept behind the Progressive Pitch in this saw and what seems to make it a fan favorite. It’s easy to start using the small-pitched teeth at the toe, and then once you get started, the larger pitched teeth cut quickly. Just remember that when you are starting a cut to hold the saw so most of the saw’s weight is off the wood. Just let the teeth lightly graze the wood, while moving the saw back and forth on your cut line. After a couple of strokes, gradually let the full weight of the saw do the work. Don’t try to add extra pressure, or you’ll likely cut off line.

Since cutting dovetails is a Rip operation, the saw plate is filed Rip, is .020” thick, and has .003” of set on each side. The saw plate is made of Swedish Steel, and is hardened to 50-52Rc, which will stay sharp for a long time, but allow re-sharpening with a small triangular file. The back of the saw is a beautiful piece of solid milled brass. This saw is now 10” long, growing an inch compared to the previous iteration, allowing a longer stroke. The saw has an open style handle, which fits hands of many sizes. The handle is made from beautiful curly maple and is held on with screws using split nuts. Below is a picture, with the split nut driver highlighted, to show what tool you will need to adjust the split nuts.

I personally find the open style handle preferable on a dovetail saw, compared either to a closed style handle or a gents style handle (which is a straight handle in line with the spine of the saw). If the saw had a closed style handle, it is likely that the balance of the saw would be upset, as the closed handle is heavier since it requires more wood. On the gents handled saws, it is easy to accidentally grab the handle, with the blade not quite straight up and down, and to lose your point of reference. I hold my saw handle with my lower three fingers and thumb, while my index finger points out and down the saw plate. The open handle, in and of itself, provides some indexing with my hand and provides feedback as to how I am holding my saw. While this is true, the pointed index finger helps me know the saw plate is in line with my forearm, as long as my wrist isn’t flexed to one side or the other. Why is this important? Let’s compare this to shooting a pistol. I know the index finger is actually on the trigger, with a pistol, but we’ll focus on the alignment issue of the tool to the forearm. When I aim a pistol, I point my forearm and hand towards my target, and of course my pistol. If I flexed my wrist either to the left or right, even though my forearm is still pointed in the target’s direction, I wouldn’t hit dead center. When using a saw, my arm works like a piston, along the line leading to my target (which is the line I want to cut). If I flex my wrist, again I’m going to miss my target, and beyond that, the saw won’t work well. The most efficient usage of a handsaw is when the saw is in line with your arm and target (cut line) and you move the saw back and forth like a piston. Once you get used to using a saw in this way, many inaccuracies go away.

I’ve always loved the look of hand-cut dovetails, and when I first started woodworking, I found they seemed very difficult to cut accurately. So much so, that I thought I just didn’t have enough skill. For a number of years, I’d repeat the process of trying some more dovetails, getting frustrated, and putting my previous dovetail saw away. When Lie-Nielsen came out with their dovetail saws, I was lucky enough to have a friend that owned one that I could try. I was amazed at just how much difference a saw could make. Now, I won’t try to tell you that my first attempt with the Lie-Nielsen dovetail saw was completely flawless, but it looked so much better than anything I had done before and I could see all that I needed was practice. (Oh, and a Lie-Nielsen dovetail saw!) I immediately recognized just how important it is to have the right amount of set on a saw. My old saw had so much set that it made a kerf that looked wide enough to drive my car through. It really felt sloppy and because of that, required a great deal of focus in the attempt to follow a line. Since Lie-Nielsen’s dovetail saws have just .003” of set on each side of the saw plate, it just takes a little practice lining up the initial cut. Once you get to where you can start the saw on your line, it will track very nicely and all you have to do is provide the power. Just back and forth.

I believe you’ll enjoy using the Progressive Pitch Dovetail saw. It can make a huge difference.

Now go make some sawdust! Let me know if you have any questions or suggestions for future articles you would like to see.

Click to take a closer look at the Progressive Pitch Dovetail Saw.

Click to see Highland Woodworking’s entire selection of Lie-Nielsen hand tools.

Lee Laird has enjoyed woodworking for over 20 years. He is retired from the U.S.P.S. and works for Lie-Nielsen Toolworks as a show staff member, demonstrating tools and training customers. You can email him at lee@lie-nielsen.com.

The Plane Facts: The Lie-Nielsen Small bench planes (1, 2 & 2I)

Jun 052012
 

The Lie-Nielsen #1 and #2 are the smallest of the bench planes, with the lower number being smaller in size. As bench planes, the iron rests on a frog (45 degrees in these two sizes) and is used in a bevel down configuration. Both the #1 and #2 are only offered in Bronze, which is heavier than the same plane would be in Iron, and has the added benefit that the body will not rust. One difference in the #1, compared to the rest of the line of Lie-Nielsen bench planes, is the fact that the body is not modeled along the Stanley Bedrock design. The #2 does follow the Bedrock design, and is offered both in Bronze. Both the #1 and #2 planes come with the A2 iron, and are set up like other bench planes.

With the size of the #1, many ask how they should hold it, since it is very compact. While I don’t have the largest of hands, I still tend to hold it a bit differently than most other bench planes. I’ll cup my rear hand around the handle, with my hand in sort of a U shape, and grip it similarly to a block plane. My front hand holds the knob, as you would expect, and makes for a more comfortable long term grip for me compared to the same time with a block plane. Now that I have this way of working with it, there are times I’ll grab my #1 instead of one of my block planes.

The #2, while small, is a fair amount larger than the #1. The #2’s size is such that some will feel comfortable using the grip I described for the #1 above, while others will hold it with a standard (although a bit more cramped) grip. I accomplish my standard grip by holding the handle with my lower three fingers, and pointing my index finger forward, very much like holding a saw. With the Bronze body, remember you should still apply some rust preventative on the blade, like Jojoba Oil or Camellia Oil. There are also silicone-treated sacks available for storage.

A question I get quite often is why someone would use these smallest bench planes. Even though I recognize the smallest Lie-Nielsen planes are very cute, they all work just as well as their larger brothers (or sisters). I find the scale of work helps me decide which size bench plane to choose for a given project. For instance, I find it easier to use a smallish plane when cleaning up the edges of 1/4” thick boards I use for the sides of some of my dovetailed boxes, rather than trying to balance my #8 jointer on the very thin edges. Another good reason to have a smaller (and shorter) bench plane in your arsenal is when you need to work a small area of a board that doesn’t need to be dead flat, but you still want to finish it with a plane. As you likely know, the longer the plane bed, the more flat is required to take a full length shaving, since the bed rides on top of any crests that might exist. The iron takes material off of the top of the crest, but can’t reach down into the valley. With a shorter plane, and depending on how far apart any crests might be, you can work down into the valley without the need to completely flatten the board first. This way you will still have a planed surface, instead of scraping or moving to sandpaper.

I find the #1 and #2 are both extremely functional and quite flexible. Either would be a nice addition to your kit.

Now go make some shavings! Let me know if you have any questions or suggestions for future articles.

Click the links to take a closer look at the Lie Nielsen #1 bench plane , #2 bronze bench plane and #2 cast ductile iron bench plane.

To see Highland Woodworking’s entire selection of Lie-Nielsen hand tools, click here.

Lee Laird has enjoyed woodworking for over 20 years. He is retired from the U.S.P.S. and works for Lie-Nielsen Toolworks as a show staff member, demonstrating tools and training customers.